Day 3 - The Roman Empire

After staying up until the middle of the night before, studying to prepare, we woke up early to take a tour of the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill and the Coliseum.  We ran across the river, and jogged past the Circus Maximus on the hottest day of our trip (mid-nineties) to make our early departure time for the tour. 

The Forum is an amazing experience.  Nestled between Rome’s seven hills, on a hot busy day, teeming with tourists, we found ourselves transported.  The bleached bones of the ruins, worn by wind and time, lay as they fell.   The Republic’s great monuments now serve as its headstone.  The forum still buzzes with laughing children running through the tall grass, the aged, walking gingerly over uneven rocks, and young couples lost in each other’s company;  but there is a palpable sense of time in the forum- while we may not seem to change, we come and go, and the long march of time- time as measured in the life of stone- will see new families, new civilizations return to our fallen monuments.

When Rome fell into decline, the city was largely abandoned: Rome’s population dwindled to an estimated 19,000.  The buildings of the forum were scavenged for materials, and eventually, the entire forum was buried, to serve as cow pasture. Ruins that poked up above the dirt were sawed off to allow for level ground for better farming.  The forum

was not excavated until the 20^th century.

The Palatine Hill was more or less shutdown that day, but we can report that it is hill-y.

The Coliseum is almost exactly what you expect, so if you have ever wanted to go, it is worth it, and if you have not wanted to go, you too can trust your instinct.  You also probably already know all the interesting little details about it, from the elevators, retractable roof and flooded stage for sea battles, so there isn’t too much to report except the following: the reason it is in such poor repair is because it was pillaged over the years for materials.  In times of war, the metal rods that connected the giant stones were excavated and used for weapons.  The entire forum is pock-marked from metal scavenging, and you can stick your index finger in every hole and feel were a metal joint was removed.  Eventually an earthquake hit, and the side from which the most metal was harvested collapsed.

After our tour we had a hearty lunch.  On a previous trip to Rome, Chris was told by a professor that you know you are in an authentic Roman restaurant when the walls are painted pale yellow, and covered with bad art.  Our lunch was at the quintessential authentic Roman restaurant, and we had an amazing lunch of melon and prosciutto, foie gras, and a particularly memorable pesto gnocchi. 

We headed back to the apartment, where we spent a few hours hanging out on our balcony, chatting about our morning, and napping.

That night we returned to Roma Sparita, this time for pizza.  We were not disappointed, and we spent a long night laughing, eating, and drinking house wine.  Full, tired and a little sun burned, we turned in to rest up for day four.  

Day 2 - Festa della Repubblica

Day two in Rome started in the late morning with a parade.  The second day of June is the Festa della Repubblica, which commemorates the 1946 vote to determine which form of government would succeed Fascism: Republican government beat out the monarchy by about 8% in the popular vote.  The celebration is marked by a military parade through the center of Rome, down the Via dei Fori Imperiali. The Via dei Fori Imperiali, a grand and wide street evoking the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, was laid down by Mussolini for just such an event.  The magnificent street was intentionally laid through ancient Roman ruins to provide an imperial backdrop for the Fascist nation’s display of might.  It draws a straight line from the Coliseum to the Piazza Venezia, and symbolically, from the empire of Ancient Rome to the Fascist Italian empire.  They are still excavating ruins from around the road, which bulldozed incalculable ruins for the opportunity to draw such a contrast.

The parade itself was as grand as the setting, with tanks, missile carriers, beret doffing special forces units, soldiers in wet suits and scuba gear, horse mounted officers with flamboyant plumage on their helmets, and a squadron of fighter jets streaking the colors of the Italian flag overhead. 

After taking in the parade and some ruins along the way, we had a pizza lunch.  The check arrived with a several euro “cover charge,” a de jure tourist tax we anticipated having to pay once or twice on the trip.  We recognized it as a sort of bogus tourist charge and were willing to pay; however, not without first watching another American couple have a hilarious exchange with the waiter trying to figure out exactly what they were being asked to pay.

We walked the busy streets up the Quirinale, the tallest of Rome’s seven hills, up to the Quirinale Palace, the President’s residence.

The square features an obelisque from Augustus’s mausoleum and two ancient roman statutes of Castor and Pollux, which have traveled from square to square in the city over the millennia. A rain broke out, and the entire square rushed under awnings nearby, waiting for the storm to pass.

After a short while, we ventured further down the Quirinal, stopping in the Sant'Andrea al Quirinale, which had some amazing works by Bernini.  The clouds under St. Peter’s feet appear so light and fluffy it is inconceivable that they were carved of marble.  We then went to a church next door, the San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, with a haunting but empty crypt Borromini designed for himself, but did not ultimately come to occupy.

On the way back we stopped at the Largo di Torre Argentina, a busy square right in the center of Rome, were cars, buses and scooters zip around four large Roman temples excavated below street level.  The ruins also serve as a cat sanctuary, and hundreds of cats can be seen lounging among the ruins.

We had dinner at an amazing restaurant right next to our apartment in Trastevere, Le Mani in Pasta.  A small and charming restaurant with an exposed kitchen, charming staff and amazingly fresh local produce and seafood (we were introduced to some lively crustaceans in the offering); it was wonderful.  We had some amazing buffalo mozzarella and prosciutto--honestly the best mozzarella we have ever had.  The pasta was fresh, homemade, and bright, and Chris had a steak cooked in green pepper sauce and Dave had a traditional Roman veal saltimbocca.  The quality and quantity of the food was overwhelming, and the delicious local Lazio wine helped make the whole meal an embarrassment of riches.  We are proud to report that we were able to at least finish the mozzarella. 

Stuffed, slightly sun burnt and happy, we waddled back to the apartment (one door down from the restaurant) to rest up for another day of delighting in each other, sun, ruins and overeating.

Day 1 - Trastevere

Our trip was bifurcated, with five days in an apartment Trastevere and five in an apartment in Campo de Fiore.  

We arrived in Trastevere in the early afternoon after having been up all night on the flight.  Even the drive from the airport was exciting as we shot through Ostia, past the Pyramids of Cestius, and into the winding streets of Trastevere.

Trastevere is a romantic neighborhood tucked “beyond the Tiber” (the literal meaning of Trastevere) to the city-center’s southwest.  Trastevere maintains its quiet charm with tight winding cobblestone streets, keeping the city’s modern day hustle and bustle at bay.   Rome’s street vendors, fast flitting scooters and buses, street choking tour groups, and impatient Romans are largely absent from the quit streets of Trastevere.

We picked the apartment in Trastevere for its large flowered fourth floor terrace, looking over romantic old rooftops, churches, bakeries (oh my god- the smells coming out of that bakery) and piazzas.  We would spend hours on the terrace chatting, taking in the sights, sounds and smells, and just enjoying each other in Rome.

 

On Wednesday afternoon, we went out for their first Roman meal:  to Roma Sparita, a little restaurant around the corner from our apartment in a small, peaceful piazza.  Still shaky with using the little Italian we knew, and disappointed that the old world brick pizza oven was still heating up for dinner, we ordered whatever pastas the waiter thought were the best.  We wound up with a tagliatelle cacio e pepe and an amatriaciano con lardo (which is what it sounds like, but really good).  Happy and stuffed, we retreated for a nap.

After resting and gussying up for a fancy dinner, we hiked up the Gianicolo, walking up winding, sidewalk-less roads in the dark, stopping every few hundred yards to take in a monument, ruin or the view, including San Pietro in Montorio.  Chris looked fetching in the light of speeding headlamps as we ascended the hill on the side of the road.

We finally arrived at Arco Antico, an upscale restaurant at the hill’s summit, featuring haute modern cuisine.  We had amazing asparagus soup, nut-encrusted lamb and the best carbonara we would have the whole trip (the key seems to be using guanciale—pork cheek—instead of pancetta, and in this case, a whole metric ton of white truffles). 

Honeymoon: Blastoff

Take your protein pills and put your helmet on.

(The first in a series.)

Post-wedding brunch

All guests are invited to a post-wedding brunch to be held at the Grand Concourse Restaurant in Station Square.  The Grand Concourse is less than a 10 minutes drive from the Mattress Factory Museum and the North Side hotels. Both a parking garage and a public parking lot are nearby.

The buffet-style brunch will be served from 9am until 11am, and guests should feel free to stop by for the entire two hours or for part of that time.

First date

It was a very hot day in July, 2006.  Dave and Chris, who had previously shopped for each other on Match.com, had their first date at Lucky Bar, Dupont Circle, D.C.  

Chris had just finished her first year of PhD coursework at Maryland, and Dave was in between his first and second year of law school.   

Chris was a little bit late for that first date, but Dave never knew.  Despite working a summer internship next door to the bar, Dave was very late.  He had stopped back home to pick up his new motorcycle (motorcycles impress all women but Chris, he would later find out).

They talked, ate nachos, and finally got chased out of the bar by a loud and aggressive salsa-dancing tutorial.  After a quick stop at the bike, they continued their first date at a bar next door.  

As the evening came to a close, they planned a second date.  And the rest, as they say, is history!  

Dining in Pittsburgh

What follows is a quick guide to Pittsburgh cuisine. Not surprisingly, this steel town is best at down-home, rib-sticking breakfasts and lunches, and even the fanciest dinner restaurants never require more than "business casual."  We've listed our favorites below (as well as some of our lighter, healthier favorites).   

 Breakfast

We (along with President Obama) strongly endorse Pamela's Diner in the Strip.  If you're not the President, you'll have to wait - maybe for a long time - but the thin, crispy pancakes are worth every minute!

Other standout breakfast options include Deluca's Diner, also in the Strip, and Crepes Parisiennes in Shady Side. If you make it out to Shady Side, which is just beyond the University of Pittsburgh and Carnegie Melon campuses, be sure to stop by Prantl's Bakery.

(NB: Parking will be difficult in the Strip on Saturdays and Sundays. Try to find a spot on Smallman Street.) 

Lunch  

You should probably eat at Primanti's, Pittsburgh's epicenter, unless you think you'll really hate cole slaw and fries on your sandwich.  There are now a few branches throughout the city, but the original is again in the Strip.

If you're looking for a little less grease, check out Enrico Biscotti Cafe, also in the Strip. Nearby Klavon's Ice Cream Parlor makes a nice after-lunch treat.  

Additionally, you might head out to The Original Hot Dog Shop (The "O") in Oakland, Pittsburgh's college 'hood, or to Tessaro's in Bloomfield for killer hamburgers.  One quick and healthy option is vegetarian Hoi Palloi Cafe and Coffeehouse, located very close to all the North Side hotels.

Dinner 

For a casual dinner, you might hit Pittsburgh's South Side, where you'll find Yo Rita, a fairly new and pretty unique taco place, DISH Osteria Bar, for Italian, or Mallorca, for Spanish. 

Max's Allegheny Tavern is a tasty German restaurant conveniently located near all North Side hotels.

Or trek out to Bloomfield (a 10 minute drive) to our favorite, Bloomfield Bridge Tavern, for delicious Polish food and for some Pittsburgh heart and soul. 
More sophisticated dining (be sure to tuck in your Steelers jersey) includes Nine on Nine and Six Penn Kitchen, both in Pittsburgh's Cultural District; or Eleven and Lidia's Italy, blocks away in the borderland between Pittsburgh's Cultural District and the Strip.  

Best highbrow option for both atmosphere and food is Isabela on Grandview, serving Italian.

View Dining in Pittsburgh in a larger map

      

Self-penned ceremony

A draft blessing that did not make the cut:


 "May they support and challenge each other emotionally, intellectually and physically."

Some engagement pictures

 

Again, many thanks to Tif at Hot Metal Studio for the lovely photos !

Gift registries

We've registered at 

• Artistica (online and in Winnetka, IL),
• Bed, Bath & Beyond (online and almost everywhere else), and
• Wishpot (online only).  

If you'd like, you can find each of our registries under either "Chris Maffuccio" or "Dave Cann." 

Experience Pittsburgh

Pittsburgh really is a fun city.  There is a lot to do there while visiting for Memorial Day weekend, hopefully including coming to our wedding.  For those of you who live in Pittsburgh or have lived in Pittsburgh, please don’t just breeze past this blog entry - add to it! 

 

Hotels, hotels, hotels!

Thanks to the hard work of the father of the bride, Dick Maffuccio, we are pleased to present you with the following hotel options for your visit to Pittsburgh.  

Transportation to and from the wedding will be provided by our gracious hosts at The Spring Hill Suites Marriott on the North Shore, at the Inn on the Mexican War Streets, and at the Priory Hotel.

View North Side Hotels in a larger map

The Spring Hill Suites Marriott on the North Shore, on Sixth and Federal across the street from PNC Park (where the Pirates lose their home games), is 1 mile away from the Mattress Factory Museum, our wedding venue.

A block of rooms has been secured for guests of the wedding at a special rate of $139 per night contingent on 15 booked rooms. Call Eileen by April 29 at (412) 323-9005 and be sure to mention the Maffuccio/Cann wedding. 

The Inn on the Mexican War Streets is a small bed & breakfast just three blocks away from Mattress Factory Museum. (Chris and Dave will be staying here.)

The entire Inn (nine rooms in total) has been secured at a special $119/night rate.  Call Karl by April 29 at (412) 231-6544 and request a room for guests of the Maffuccio/Cann wedding.

The Priory Hotel, a cool, old-world bed & breakfast one mile from the Mattress Factory Museum.  

Rooms, which vary in price and size, are not reserved but should be available if booked far enough in advance.  Call (412) 231-3338.



Additionally, rooms have been blocked off at The Pittsburgh Marriot North in Cranberry Township, which is just a few short minutes away from the Maffuccios' in the North Hills and a 25 minute drive from the Mattress Factory Museum. 

Call Jill at (724) 772-3701.  If 10 rooms are booked by April 29, the hotel will offer wedding guests a special rate of $119/night.  Again, ask for the Maffuccio/Cann wedding block.

Wedding vows

The now relatively popular “Apache Wedding Blessing” was written in 1950 for a cowboy movie, Broken Arrow.  An even less well known fact is that other movies and TV shows have spawned popular wedding vows.  Here are just a few:

Broken Arrow,  “The Apache Wedding Blessing”

Now you will feel no rain,
For each of you will be shelter to the other.
Now you will feel no cold,
For each of you will be warmth to the other.
Now there is no more loneliness,
For each of you will be companion to the other.
Now you are two bodies,
But there is one life before you.
Go now to your dwelling place,
To enter into the days of your togetherness.
And may your days be good and long upon the earth.

Deadwood, “Vows of South Dakota”

I, *#%$@*%&, take thee, to be my #%$@*%& wife,
and before #%$@*%& God and these #%$@*%& witnesses I promise to be
a faithful and true husband."

"Will you, #%$@*%&  have this #%$@*%& to be your #%$@*%& wife? Will you #%$@*%& #%$@*%& her, comfort and keep her, and #%$@*%&saking all#%$@*%& other remain true her as long as you both shall #%$@*%& live?"

"With this #%$@*%& ring I thee #%$@*%& wed, and all my worldly goods I thee endow. In #%$@*%& sickness and in health, in poverty or in wealth, 'til #%$@*%&death do us #%$@*%& part #%$@*%&."

Did you know...

• Chris and Dave met on match.com.
  
• At their first date, Chris told Dave he was “the sweatiest person" that she had ever seen.  It was true.
• Chris is in charge of making sure bills get paid on time; Dave is in charge of taking our the garbage and recycling.
• Dave informally proposed to Chris several times before finally procuring a ring and doing it properly.   While a fait acompli, it was still very nice.
• Chris’s engagement ring was Dave’s great grandmother’s.
• All of Dave’s co-workers have mentioned, independently, how smart Chris is.
• Chris was not wooed by Dave’s having a motorcycle, despite repeated assurances that she should be.
• During the duration of their relationship, Chris has never had fewer than 50 library books in the her apartment.
• When Chris and Dave began dating almost none of their friends had babies or dogs.  Now you all do. 
• Chris encourages Dave to work on his art projects; Dave discourages Chris from working so hard all the time.
• Chris cooks Mondays and Tuesdays; Dave cooks Wednesdays and Thursdays.  Friday is date night.